Skin Problems – How to Properly Choose Skincare? Dermatologist Lata on Skin Care

And I just wash myself with water and everything is fine with me. Raise your hand if you don't have skin problems. So, what do we need to have in our makeup bag today? Vitamin C, squalane, ceramides, azelaic acid.

That is, having combination skin is more expensive because you need both. Any product on any skin can cause irritation. But what about those masks that some people actually make at home? A cucumber under the eye has never hurt anyone.

Tonic, toner, micellar water, sunscreen, cold cream, day or night cream, as well as scrubs, peels, foams and gels. And we haven't even read the composition yet.

In a world without acetamides, retinoids, nourishing oils, sulfates, parabens, and acids, it's even easier to get lost. But is it true that our face needs so many different products? Hello, this is the podcast How to Live, and I am its host, Alena Nezvets.

And today we will figure out what is and is not necessarily in our skincare bag. And dermatovenereologist Yaroslav Lata will help us figure this out. Yaroslav Lata is a dermatovenereologist and cosmetologist with 14 years of work experience.

has extensive experience in treating acne, atopic dermatitis, and eczema. Focuses on routine practice of body rejuvenation, in particular correction and prevention of age-related skin changes. Yaroslav, hello.

Nice to see you again in our studio. Well, thank you very much for the invitation. And I am also sincerely glad, because these meetings give us the opportunity to talk about current issues. And in fact, everyone who sees and hears us today will do so with great love, because after each of our podcasts, many people write on social media, ask many questions, and this gives rise to topical topics.

This is true, because in fact, our topic today, how to choose skincare cosmetics, was born thanks to your comments, friends, because we were written to under more than one video about the need to somehow explain whether I need this cream, and what is a tonic in general? But micellar water, is it really not that useful? And today I suggest that you and I explore this topic. But first, let's start with our traditional blitz.

Again, I read the statement. You should briefly comment on whether this is true or a myth. Night melting cream is a marketing division. In fact, they are usually the same in composition.

Well, I'm not good at being concise, sorry, but you know, there's this meme: "How does a night cream know that it's a night cream?" Well, that's the answer. Therefore, they can indeed be very similar, but usually the texture of the product that is offered to us as night care may be denser, and there it may be qualitatively different from the daytime product.

Blitz is no longer out. But we understand that. Nothing, continue. This is important. There may be active ingredients that are prohibited from being used in sunlight. For example, it could be retinol, or any vitamin A derivatives.

It could be some kind of abrasive detergent particles. And the speculation. So now they've made a splash with this Korean remedy with speculaas. But it's not possible for a day.

And for example, high concentrations of vitamin C, and a combination of different acids. And even if they are very, very light, it will usually still be a night remedy. There are lifting active ingredients that cause very mild irritation.

You know, like lip balms that have a plumping effect, they work the same way. And that's it for the night. Why? Because during the day there is still external exposure to light, and they are not compatible with these ingredients.

There must be a special cream for the area around the eyes. And on the one hand, yes, because such products may contain venotonics, for example, which affect the blood vessels. And this prevents swelling, makes you look fresh, well, and so on, and so on.

But if we're talking about skin with some diseases, and I've realized this simply in my practice, there are basic moisturizing things that we can apply from the heels to the top of the head. Yes, we can apply them around the eyes in the same way.

So, ah, so don't be afraid if you don't have a special eye cream. The only thing that is not recommended to be applied around the eyes is, well, very aggressive, active ingredients and that's it. By and large, we can cover many areas with one tool.

You say aggressive, what are they exactly? This is it again, yes, retinol. There are different forms of retinol. There's encapsulated, unencapsulated, high concentrations of vitamin C.

It's just the skin around the eyes, it's special. The thickness of the dermal layer there, where this collagen lives, can be 0.4 mm, and the skin on the cheek can be 0.21 mm, even one and a half, and the entire volume of this dermal layer. And we understand that these are different degrees of availability and penetration of active ingredients.

And this can simply be a trigger in the area around the eyes. Well, that's all. Let's move on. Sunscreen can protect against age spots. Oh, that's true.

But I wouldn't use the wording "able to protect," because then people have this, and a false impression that if we apply SPF, for example, 50+, then the age spot is gone, it won't appear. Oh, friends, listen, because this is important.

Sunscreen is not 100% protection. Therefore, those people who already had pigmentation treated it during the winter period. You wo n't let me make it up, will you? Once the first rays of the sun appear and you responsibly use SPF 50+, everything is very good, but still the pigmentation contrasts because, well, there is no 100% protection.

That's all. Micellar water can cause clogged pores and irritation. Well, that's true. Let's not build myths again. Any product on any skin can cause irritation and blockage of the sebaceous glands, leading to either irritation or some kind of inflammation.

Why is that? Micellar water, if it's high-quality, is a very expensive thing, because technologically packaging these tiny lipids into this sphere that will protect them is very expensive. Therefore, in reality, micellar waters become more expensive the more high-tech they are in production.

If these are more accessible forms, there, well, such frankly heavy lipids, heavy fats are used and you may be comfortable with this for a while. But if you have any skin characteristics, combination, oily, etc., this can lead to clogged pores, inflammation, irritation, and so on.

I always say this, you know, like spreading butter on margarine. Well, it's going to be very greasy, right? and I don't want to anymore, it's somehow tasteless. But if it's a thin butter, then it's a real treat and it's so delicious.

So, if we add more oil to oily skin, it can cause problems. This is logical. Are lip scrubs and peels harmful? This question is straight, I think, from my Instagram, because I'm straight, you know, and this story was born because I had a girl who would come to my appointment constantly with an irritated red border around her lips. She was about 13 or 14.

And there was this trend on TikTok. It started right away, somehow, all at once. I felt this from patients not on TikTok, I am not an active user of it. And she treasured her lips with sugar.

sugar, something mixed in there, so it didn't let it heal at all. Friends, listen to me as a dermatologist, maybe listen again, ask questions about this. Well, the skin on your lips is so thin, you can't scrub it.

And if you see any flakes, yes, the dryness of the red lip game, it doesn't mean it's dryness. It could be irritation, dermatitis, a reaction to some food or some detergent. So, using a scrub to exfoliate the scales is a bad strategy.

You will cause erosions, you will cause micro-wounds. Lips are a very dynamic area, right? And these are constant cracks. Then these eyes come in, in our dermatological language, thick impetigo.

What does impetigo mean? This is the accession of infection, streptococcus, staphylococcus. And in this age range, somewhere around 14-16, when girls are in such a search, yes, for some new things, they are so excited about everything, they run to the stores, there is something for themselves in a hurry. Lip scrubs are very, very bad.

Therefore, there is no need to do this. Don't give in to this trend. They don't lead to anything useful. From the word at all.

we figured it out, because I remember that during our probably last recording you were just talking about how they are harmful, but since that wasn't our topic, we figured it out today. When can these scrubs become very relevant? Or in the winter, when the wind and cold, yes, our lips simply dry out.

But in the summer it's a different story. In the summer, when we see peeling on the lips, it is usually solar cheilitis. That is, the sun is so aggressive that our skin can peel, burn a little, turn red, and yes, our lips can react as well.

And imagine, there is inflammation, the skin on our lips, yes, it tries to protect itself by thickening and peeling. And then you add to that the trauma of scrubbing, you know? And here is such a pathological circle: the more you scrub, the more it peels off.

you're still trying to scrape it off. And that's why someone needs to explain at some point that inflammation is not the classic dryness that can be scrubbed off. That is, these are completely different things.

Okay, we've sorted it out. Let's move on. You should not wash your face with hand soap, as this can lead to irritation. Well, yes, indeed.

And again, look, we start from what kind of skin you have. If it's drier, then, of course, soap is such a mess, very aggressive. And, by the way, the cheaper the soap, the more aggressively it washes it all away.

And indeed, it will dry out, indeed, it can irritate the skin. But there are a number of patients who, you know, have skin that's, well, very firm, and also oily, ah, greasy. And they come to me, sometimes they say: "Well, yes, I wash myself with soap." And I'm fine, everything is fine.

Ah, you always need to choose the tool that you are comfortable with. The only thing is when I hear: "Oh, I don't wash at all, here it's like, yes, oh, error, error." Or, for example, I just wash with water. And here's the big question today, which, well, there's no clear answer: to wash with just water or not to wash with just water.

And again the question of comfort. Here comes a person and, imagine, for, I don't know, 26 years of her life she washed herself with just water. And at the age of 26, she began to be bothered by rashes.

Well, she somehow lived comfortably when she washed herself with water. That is, there are many factors that act on our skin, changing its protective lipid mantle, for example, changing the skin microbiome. And this is not directly, but it may be related to the type of activity in which a person is engaged.

Yes, the level of skin pollution is related to the level of stress that a person is experiencing. And, of course, our skin will react. Sometimes it becomes impossible to wash yourself with just soap.

Yes? Or washing yourself with just water is just as impossible. Or the option of not washing at all, it is also losing relevance. Friends, my colleagues are analyzing even more useful articles and relevant research for Pro League subscribers.

Subscribe to regularly receive even more useful information about health and more. Link under the video. That's when Blitz and I gradually moved on to my first question, and that's exactly what I had: "Can you wash yourself with just water?" This question arose not so much from me as from our comments, because very often people wrote to us: "I just wash myself with water and everything is fine with me and I feel okay and my skin is of good quality." Can this really be the case? Absolutely.

Absolutely. And this is, let's say, a rarer option, because, well, raise your hand, who doesn't have skin problems, yes, today. Ah, so it's easier for us to even find a person who, well, we won't find a patient and a person who does n't have a skin problem.

Friends, well, write, who has never felt tightness, dryness. This is simply unrealistic in the rhythm in which we live. But in some cases, people are really very lucky.

That is, they have hormonal health, they can afford timely nutrition there, you know. Well, that's how it turned out. And they have an anatomically, physiologically normal skin type.

People are like that. We have dry, normal, oily, and combination skin. Yes, it's not a myth that there are such people from normal schools. Yes, we have a conditional division.

This can change, by the way, throughout life. And imagine, everything works out for you, you have a normal skin type, you live your best life in comfortable conditions. And indeed, you can wash yourself with just water.

And if we consider just water, friends, if you're in the city, you don't just have water, that is, the water may contain, for example, chlorine, which also destroys our mantle, right? Because it aggressively breaks down fats, in principle. There may be ions of various metals there, and then what, yes, this limescale provides, that is, these are salts.

And you didn't notice the difference when you wash yourself with water, for example, somewhere in a village, which comes from a well, and it does n't seem to wash off you. It's so soft because there's no salt in it, nothing.

And there is water in the city. Even if you just rinse with this water, you feel your skin tightening. And it also really depends on which city, because when I wash my hair, for example, in Chernihiv and in Kyiv, the hairstyles I get are completely different.

Such soft hair in Chernihiv, in Kyiv, because the texture of the hair changes. And you see, and you feel it exactly like that. And it's the same story with skin.

So, for those who are lucky, who have really cool, normal skin, well, slightly combination, if possible, there is slight dryness. That is, a person does not classify this as a pathological condition for themselves.

Yes, he doesn't force you to change your life and think about it. Great, you can also use water, but it would be a strategic mistake if you think, what about problematic skin with rashes? So, just water is a great way to wash. By the way, I mostly encounter this with teenage boys at my appointments.

And you know, we have the same skin at 10 years old, and at 14, for example, but when you have such testosterone waves, your hair is stronger, your skin gets stronger faster. And this is the age when it is important, especially for parents, to see in good time that the skin has changed and offer their child a cleansing product according to their financial capabilities, or if a doctor chooses it, then listen to these recommendations and that's it.

I mean, ah, I'm really surprised when a person says: "I just wash myself with water and everything is great." Because, well, I'm deformed, yes, I'm constantly working with problem skin, there, with some issues, and here, just with water. And I myself sometimes sit as a person, not as a doctor, and think: "Wow, how lucky the person is." I'm jealous.

No, what's there to envy? God, this feels bad. And at some point in time, I managed to completely move away from it, because, again, look, not in the context of something like that, but you live your story and you live your story of the problems and characteristics of your skin. So, from such important communication with patients, I get the story that acne doesn't rule your life.

But if you have some kind of pigment spot, well, it's not a tragedy. Today, we can work with this and achieve results. And we must realize that this result sometimes cannot be one hundred percent.

Your physiology has changed, yes, some people have such a hormonal background, such a one, some are boys, some are girls, some are girls with some, yes, hormonal features, and some people will have skin that doesn't need foundation, nothing. And someone, excuse me, already at the age of 13 has a lot of problems.

And it is very important to support this child, this teenager, and give them tools, to explain that this is not a magic wand. And it doesn't matter if it's acne, redness, tightness, or itching.

That is, the doctor must provide the opportunity and tools to work with this, but also give a realistic assessment. Because when we see a tool bursting onto the market, and it's very often Instagram, TikTok, yes, it really promotes it, well, a trend.

Nobody cares anymore, you know? This is a serum with speculaas and retinol. And I see these teenagers buying and applying sunscreen when the UV index is eight, seven. And retinols, spicules are trauma.

And we already see post-inflammatory, post-traumatic pigmentation at the age of 14, because, well, there are a lot of care products, incompatible care products. But when we take something from something so trendy without analyzing anything, we have to take responsibility for it.

In what respect? Okay, it could be spicule and retinol, but then it must be SPF. And here the problem begins, because we forgot about SPF, didn't apply it, and didn't renew the layer after two hours. Oh, it was so sunny.

And that's what it is, right, doctor? Well, I say yes. And when you analyze this entire arsenal of these jars, well, everything there is logical. Well, let's talk then.

We'll give you just the tools that should be in the arsenal of jars, because we have this idea from Instagram, again, that the more, the better. However, in reality, we basically have two stages, as far as I understand: cleansing and moisturizing.

Ugh. What should be in our cosmetic bag? Oh, the kind that, you know, is a must have and is necessary, so I won't take responsibility for saying that someone needs something. Of course, this is a cleanser, but depending on your skin type, you still need it.

And if we're talking about this, you know, how the average temperature in the ward is up to 30-35, usually we're talking about lightly moisturizing the skin, that is, restoring this damaged hydrolipid mantle. And in principle, the patient may be comfortable with this.

So, essentially, it all comes down to real cleansing and real moisturizing. But there could be a lot of other requests in between, you know? And usually what are they? Oh, well, rashes, of course, I want to shrink the pores there. And small wrinkles under the eyes at 23 years old, something needs to be done about it.

Redness. Yes. Oh, oh, oh, there's some kind of pigment spot here. What is this? That's all. And people read about pigmentation, they read about what can cause it. And then Pandora's box opens.

Because patients start to ignore everything that says against pigmentation and redness. And, look, it can be from redness, again, just regular moisturizing and nothing else is needed, because some of these redness, dilation of blood vessels, they are just caused by dryness, irritation. And sometimes it is a dramatic diagnosis, which may be due to a combination of genetic predisposition and the action of a trigger factor.

And here we need to pay more attention to, let's say, medicinal ingredients. And sometimes it's erythematous redness, when the patient, it says there's a very small percentage of retinol. It's like it's nothing.

It's like he's almost not there. The patient did a scraping, applied this product with retinol on top, very light, right there. And she is surprised, she says: "God, I have some irritation." That is, it is a heterogenic story from precisely that arsenal of means.

So, my friends, there is no such thing as you being obligated to have anything. Cleanser and moisturizer, like girls always have in their handbags, are always tiny, yes, there's lip balm and hand cream, because you washed your hands and moisturized them. And this is a very good habit.

Sometimes coffee is harmful, sometimes it's almost healing. So run because it's good, then don't run because your knees will hurt. Either use the cream or throw it away.

So how to be healthy? Alena, why are you so calm? There may be harmful bacteria in the water, and reading in general worsens your eyesight. Denisa, because I'm subscribed to the YouTube channel League Life, where there's a lot of evidence-based information without health myths.

And that's it. And I also have a bell so I don't miss new episodes of the podcast "How to Live". And that's it, Denis, that's all you need to understand the topic of health well. Subscribe too.

You mentioned in our conversation that you need to choose products based on your skin type. We already know that we have a combined one. This is oily plus dry, oily, dry and normal skin.

Well, we'll ignore the normal one. We talked about her a little bit today. Yes. But combination, dry and oily. If we talk about the stages of hair removal, as well as cleansing, what product formulas do we need to choose, how to do it correctly? Ugh.

So, the first thing we need to understand is what skin type we have. Yes, and if you and I wash our skin and look at it two hours later, we take a piece of paper, a regular piece of paper, and blot it. If we see oily spots, it means that this area of ​​skin is still oily.

And then we interpret it as oily skin type or combination, because there may be increased sebum in the T-zone. Yes, but on the peripheral areas of the face, and it is dry, then it is combination.

But if we hold the leaf and there's nothing, then you have a dry skin type. Accordingly, we will have various active ingredients that we can recommend to such patients. If you have dry skin, pay attention, it could be from glycerin, as it is the most common ingredient in cosmetics.

This can be lanolin, ceramides, squalane, various cholesterols, and triglycerides. That is, this is the fatty fraction. If you have oily skin, pay attention to sulfate-free detergents, by the way.

So, I'm asking you, don't get carried away by this, because sulfate-free products, from the point of view of whether there is any harm, are great, but from the point of view of washing away sebum, sulfate-free products cannot do that. Therefore, a-a sulfates can be used as detergent ingredients.

There can already be a lot of active AA agents, such as ah acids, beta, hydroxy acids, that is, a whole group, right? Azelaic acid, as the most well-known of them. Well, there are various ingredients, extracts of herbs, berries, antioxidants, and so on, and so on.

But for this, for oily skin type, it is unacceptable to choose three glycerides, squalane, and these are very heavy forms. But ceramides, which restore the lipid mantle, are acceptable even for oily skin types.

If you have combination skin, friends, use brushes. We will draw now. That is, we can use products in that area that will be self-regulating, regulating cell exfoliation. And for the peripheral areas of the face, it's more about moisturizing things, right? And that means having combination skin is more expensive because you need both.

But that's all and that's the special feature. So we can play around with whether it will suit a person. And if this scenario is accepted by the skin, great, we fixed it and left.

If we're talking to you about skin types that you won't understand right away, like oily, irritated, sweaty, or something else, we choose more inert products, that is, cleansing and neutral, light moisturizing. But for all skin types today, we recommend using SPF protection, because it suffers from ultraviolet rays in the same way, more or less, but equally.

And when you choose SP - this is a mandatory option in winter, summer, slightly lower protection numbers, higher ones, but it is advisable to use them, then again we look at the combination. SPF can be with acids, SPF can be with vitamin C, SP can be with moisturizing ingredients, which we already talked about.

And you choose this SPF according to your skin type. All. Do I understand correctly that SPF is a must-have in our beauty care kit throughout the year? That is, it is so needed in autumn, spring, winter, and summer. Yes, that's true, because there are different radiation spectra.

And it is very important to pay attention to the fact that SPF protects not only from UVB, but also UVA. There is also a red spectrum of radiation, there is also a blue spectrum of radiation for those who work at a monitor, oh, there is a lot of it, yes, there is printing, there is something else doing.

That is, people who work with technology also need protection from this blue light. It has already been proven to cause premature aging as well. Therefore, to those who work in offices, we send greetings with a computer.

We didn't know it all this time either. And how do we choose this number that we are writing? That is 15 3050. Yes.

Yes. Well, for example, in the summer you need 50, and in the winter you need 15, or what? M. So, look, in terms of protection, all SPFs are the same. They are distinguished only by the time of onset of the erythematic reaction under the action of the emitter.

15 is a very short-term protection, there are 40 minutes and you have to renew this layer. 30 - it could be up to an hour. 50 - it could be 2-2, for hours.

Again, it depends on whether you sweated, whether you bathed, whether you applied any makeup on top, or whether you touched your face. Therefore, it depends on whether it is a chemical filter, a combination of physical and chemical, or whether it is physical.

And a physical filter when applied, if you don't touch your face, you don't sweat, in principle, it will maintain its function for a longer time. And the chemical filter breaks down under the influence of energy, so after two hours it is simply no longer able to absorb this solar energy.

This chemical reaction has occurred. All. Therefore, the product is desirable if we are talking about the long- term prevention of photoinduced skin changes, if we want to protect the skin from excessive sun exposure in the summer or during a vacation in a sunny country. So yes, a joint venture is a must.

And now everything is moving towards what? SPF includes care components, antioxidants, and active ingredients. That is, today it ceases to be a mono-means.

There is another product called cold cream, which is usually used in winter. How is it different from our regular cream? Yes, cold creams, they have fattier bases. And if you touch them directly with your hand like this, they feel like such a light, almost oily product.

Ah, where do we use cold creams? These are the areas that suffer the most from aggression, usually wind and cold. And these are our hands, these are our cheeks.

And cultural creams have been very actively implemented in pediatric practice, that is, to protect the baby's bottom, to protect the baby's cheeks. And when these people have sensitive dry skin, atopic dermatitis, and so on, and so on, in adulthood they are prone to severe dryness, super uncomfortable, yes, xerosis of the skin.

And then cold cream will be absolutely comfortable for such patients. And he may be in care, but situationally, not on a permanent basis. We talked about different skin types.

However, there are people who have direct dermatological diagnoses, yes, there are rosacea, atopic dermatitis, acne, and you can repeat and continue this list here. However, do I understand correctly that they generally need to choose care products exclusively with doctors? Eh, it's desirable.

Yes. Why? It is very important not to miss the moment of collecting anamnesis. I ask every patient the question: "Have you had allergic reactions to anything: food triggers, cosmetics, medications?" And usually a whole conversation develops from this simple question. Oh, doctor, I have a reaction to birch, which means I have a cross-reaction to green apple.

I have a reaction to cat saliva, so I also have a reaction to dog saliva, and maybe someone else. When you collected the analysis correctly, the patient carefully recalled it to you, told you about it, well, you understand that it is possible. Therefore, we will not go into detail about various cosmetic products here.

It makes no sense. Well, there's no point. Look, you know, in advertising they always say, well, to protect the manufacturer, they write, well, there as advertising or individual intolerance, sensitivity and so on. We are not even immune from this.

Look, the products you've been using for 40 years, at some point you can apply and get a reaction. Why? Because there has been sensitization to it. This is how we talked about the sensitivity of the skin, about the nasolabial triangle, yes, its sensitivity.

So, yes, it's true, no one has canceled individual sensitivity. Why do you need micellar water and tonic? And I also found a word like toner. Well, but I don't know what it is.

Yes. And if we look at it from the perspective of cosmetic chemistry, for example, then these are slightly different products. And if we're talking about micellar water, then it's still a water base, and micelles float in it, that is, such peas of lipids and fat, in which various active agents or lipids in these peas can be packaged.

And it turns out that this water fraction cleanses the skin, and these peas are so soft and cover the skin with a thin layer. That's why people with dry skin types really like micellar water.

And write directly who sometimes replaces washing with micellar water. That is, the cleansing stage takes place thanks to micellar water. And that's cool because it's a more gentle approach.

It protects the lipid mantle and everything is great. Tonic from the word tonic. Well, I feel like he has something to stone there. Well, from a chemical point of view, this [music] makes no sense at all.

Why? Because what can you put in a toner to directly tone your skin? And these could be some ingredients, extracts of berries, plants, some young wheat germs, or something else. What are they doing? They seem to tone our vascular network, making it shrink and shrink.

Yes, it reduces the sloppiness and certain other things can. And this can be purely temperature toning, because now there are many such products and tonics that say to store in a cool place. And then, due to the temperature factor, we tone up.

This is training. And again, blood vessels in most cases from the point of view of chemistry. And the tonic may already contain various active ingredients. Tonic, for example, may contain acids, but they are usually freely available, that is, in an aqueous solution.

Toners don't contain as many of these fatty micelles, and micellar is completely different. And so to speak, recently, in a historical aspect, marketers gave us a new tool called toner. It doesn't sound as simple as a tonic, does it? tonics.

Yes, something very fun. And the toner, again, is water-based, meaning it's not a greasy substance, but it has a higher concentration of some active ingredient. And we have a very popular toner with retinol in Ukraine.

Because retinol, what is its special feature? This is still a more fat-soluble substance. Yes, and we are used to them being in such cream products. But this is not always suitable for people with oily skin types, because it is simply uncomfortable for them.

And so, yes, a form like toner was developed. That is, it resembles micellar water or a tonic familiar to the patient, but with a higher percentage of active ingredient. And this is already such a step for the market and the cosmetology industry.

towards the accent on the problem, because the toner can already solve a certain request, an active problem. Rashes, then there may be more, for example, some kind of acid, right? Or if it's anti-aging or pigmentation, then it could be a vitamin A derivative, the emphasis is on it.

If it's more hydration, we can use more lactic acid. Well, that's the main difference. And here this is not a mandatory stage. This is not a mandatory step.

Therefore, if you have a problem and there is a toner or tonic that is specifically designed for this problem, you can include it in your care program. But if you just grab a toner with a high content of vitamin A derivatives off the shelf and think that this is how I'm toning my skin, then you may get certain reactions, yes, there are increased dryness, peeling, well, and so on, and so on.

That's why there are these nuances. Look, we talked about toner, tonic, micellar water, but sometimes they add serum between cleansing and moisturizing. Ugh.

What is this? My understanding is that this is some kind of product with a high concentration of active ingredients. Do we need it at all with rollers, with all sorts of squeaks? Yes.

Yes. No. Well, that would be very boring. And so, imagine, between the cream and the gel for washing, we have a whole line. In general, sometimes it's not clear where to put what.

Ah, you remember, you and I are from that generation that remembers and didn't have serums. No, they weren't. And do you remember the moment of their active introduction into the market? Well, it's so technical in the market, but in general in our subconscious.

So there is a cream, but enhance its effect. And this serum with an active ingredient will solve everything now. Apply it to clean skin, under cream.

Well, it's like this, well, a blockbuster is upon us. I clearly remember this moment, and at the time I didn't realize it, but I heard it everywhere that serum is like a cream. That's all, to reinforce it.

This can really be used as an enhancer for your care. And again, what kind of serum can it be? It can be moisturizing, or it can contain more, for example, a concentration of squalane, ceramides. Yes? And we seem to enhance the moisturizing function or restore the function of our skin more, and then cover it with cream.

For what? so that she could work there even more actively. And serums, in my opinion, give you the opportunity to, in a sense, personalize this care, you know? Oh, well, we don't name brands in principle, because we're not talking about advertising here, but, yes, there is a whole palette of serums or serum creams, which include, for example, tranexamic acid, phytic acid, vitamin C, squalane, ceramides, azelaic acid, betahydroxy, alphahydroxy, arbutin, vitamins, there are some more, for example, antioxidants, there are more, right? And then a patient comes to you and asks some kind of, well, specific question. For example, you know, we were on some expedition there, we got really windy there, we were climbing up, somewhere else.

Aha. You sit there thinking, "The cream she's using isn't very greasy, but we can enhance it with a serum." And I take ceramides, I prescribe them to the patient, but this condition will not always be there. That is, it will take 4-6 weeks, the patient will restore their skin, and this jar is usually 15 ml, they are not that big.

And we solved the problem. The cheesecake coped with this. Another request is born: "I want to be more radiant." And here you are already looking: "Yes, but where are the acids" or vitamin C? That is, to ensure that skin glow. And you are strengthening this cream again.

And the cream can be the same all this time. So, in essence, it's personification. Time. This is a doctor's or cosmetologist's answer to the problem that is bothering you right now. And some of them can be applied topically, right? And if there is any local inflammation, redness, then you are just like a social media user.

For example, everyone loves azelaic acid. It has, well, a certain number of advantages. It is now encapsulated, and, well, it has many forms. Locally applied.

And this one over there, excuse me, is a pimple. We talked a lot about acne in the last issue, what a pimple, papule, and pustule are. We leave a link in the description under the video.

Yes, if you look again. That's it. And then we apply this serum locally. And, for example, we then choose where there is, well, an extremely high concentration. Now salicylic acid, it's immortal, you know.

Well, they talk about her all the time. Yes, they taught her what to pack in a lipid envelope. Like the micellar water we talked about, it doesn't irritate the skin as aggressively. It can also be applied locally.

Now a very interesting form of azeloglycine combination has appeared. That is, we have the same effects as from azelaic acid, and from salicylic acid, but it is milder, and it is more effective, while irritating the skin less. And that's when this serum comes in handy.

That's why I never reject them. I always love it very much. And I just know where to insert it in order to get the situationally desired moment, close the request, and first of all solve the problem. And there are also a lot of scrubs and peels on the market.

We talked about lips, but there are also products for the face. Are they needed? Yes, definitely. And again, we were very lucky. We lived on such a broken foundation.

There were no scrubs in our childhood. We didn't scrape our lips when we were 12 years old. They did n't know anything about it at all. Yes, you say.

But look, scrubs have appeared. What is their task? Exfoliate dead cells. If you have succumbed to aging, exfoliate your cells, a new layer of skin. There is also a physiological and dermatological implication to this.

This is true. Because when we do exfoliate, yes, peeling off the dead epidermis, our skin really looks, you know, like polished. And someone really loves this shine, really wants their skin to be that shiny.

Then it could be a scraper. And then again, when a person, well, there's no such problem physiologically, they have normal, great skin, but I heard about scrubs that you have to exfoliate if you want to be young, yes, it's more attractive there. And this scrub begins.

And this will be a problem for the skin. So I'm not completely against it. But then again, ah, looking at the skin, I can recommend a scrub there once. per week, as such a more intensive procedure.

If you like to use, for example, masks, yes, they have deep and moisturizing effects or with some active ingredient, thanks to the scrub we can ensure deeper penetration of the active ingredients, because some people have such thick, oily skin, and the scrub injures it a little, really removes this stratum corneum, which can be a barrier to more active penetration. And after this scrub, you apply a mask there for 15-40 minutes and get an enhanced effect.

But scrubbing yourself every night, you know, like a polish for shine, is a very bad story, because it's just chronic skin irritation. And then people are very surprised why their skin doesn't respond to any more care.

And we are due to such hyperabsorption, and in the cosmetics market, very often the patient's skin sensitivity is so high that, imagine, they can't even use a moisturizer anymore. And here I will give as an example the dermatological diagnosis of perioral dermatitis.

I write about it a lot, my colleagues talk about it a lot, cosmetologists, everyone. But why? Perioral dermatitis is not only bacterial, yes, the moment plays a role, but also contact trigger factors. And the more the patient triggers themselves with scrubs, moisturizers, and so on, and so on, this simple contact a priori dermatitis flares up and everything.

Here, too, the skin is thin. Yes. And imagine, we can't compensate for it with anything. Why? You apply a treatment product, but it's in a cream form, the ingredients resemble skincare products, and there's an even greater reaction to it. So, be very attentive to your feelings.

So I'll say it this way. And if something still bothers you, it's not just cosmetic care, it's a dermatological problem. Consult a doctor, understand her.

You just need to realize it in time. So the question is scrubs yes or no? Both yes and no. And peels? Peels are a great option. If the scrub is more light, yes, more superficial, then chemical peels.

Although a scrub is a peeling, right? Only mechanical. This is a very interesting classification. It still flows from others. Maybe peels are just products, usually they are more liquid, but with these abrasive particles.

And what about a scrub that is not abrasive? Same. Well, the scrub is really abrasive. Well, he's just like some kind of briquette, to be honest. Well, here's what I see in the mass market right now.

It's classic, I think, well, I don't think so, I'm convinced that people perceive a scrub when it's dispersed dots. They feel like it's a scrub for them.

And peeling is, ah, stereotypically about acids. Ugh. That is, peeling. What do you think of first, friends? About acids. What will be the acids there? Because chemical peels, they are, well, the masters of the market, both in the professional segment and, ah, in the pharmacy segment.

Therefore, I am in favor of peelings with both hands. Why? This is therapeutic cosmetology, if we can say so directly. These are really effective active ingredients.

It could be glycolic acid. She is very special. By the way, I don't recommend anyone just choose glycolic acid on their own. She is very unstable.

Even light concentrations of it can penetrate deeply, provoke additional pigmentation, and instead of lifting and brightening with a small percentage of glycolic acid, you can get pigmentation, irritation, and so on. And I had a personal experience of this.

I couldn't do anything about my age spots for a year and a half after a very light, cool glycolic peel. And it could be, yes, lactic acid, it's more about exfoliation, not exfoliation, it's about moisturizing the stratum corneum of the epidermis.

Again, these can be azelaic peels, which work really well for oily skin types, with enlarged pores, even with the same pigmentation, and with acne, they can give good results. These can be combinations of acids, i.e.

multi-peelings, right? These can be fruit acids, which contain pyruvic acid and malic acid. And fruit peels, in a way, they're, you know, very gentle, therapeutic. Why? Because they can easily dry the skin, yes, have a bactericidal effect, and promote cell exfoliation, but without aggression.

And very often, fruit acids are used in skin care products and they are, well, let's say, safer, right? M, so peeling is a stereotype about acid. But the depth of action of peels is different.

And I'm very sorry, but what? Well, what's wrong with me? Everyone chooses what they want, yes, to get. Ah, but even medium peels have become available to the general public.

You've seen these horrible pictures, when it all peels off, falls away. That is, this peeling is not therapeutic in terms of the process of recovery. Yes, it's just so corrective when there's a real problem and we really need to remove this skin.

And a mid-level peel is about exfoliation, about rehabilitation. It's 10, uh, days, two weeks, three weeks. And when a person does this on their own, well, these are very deplorable consequences.

I'm not talking about deep peels, when we have access to, imagine, trichloroacetic acid. And sorry, this is frost. What is frost? When we apply a peel and we see the skin being welded underneath it.

And it's sometimes a controlled thing, sometimes an uncontrolled thing. It depends on the doctor who performs it. This time.

Now imagine that the patient bought 30% trichloroacetic acid at home, made a scrub, and then applied it all over. And sometimes I had people call me in the middle of the night: "Doctor, I'm dying, help me, I need an ambulance." And what? But I did some peeling.

Which? And here you see. And I say: "Calm down, this is really frost. What if you don't fix anything, right? We'll just have to wait and rehabilitate the skin properly now. That's why peels are different.

What else do you need to pay attention to, friends? Just note this for yourself. The pH, that is, the percentage of acid can be, well, just so high. There, the marketers have worked on this, you know.

They amaze us, yes. But you need to look at the pH, if it's closer to one, then it's an aggressive peel. That is, pH2 3 2 15 1.8 and up to one, these are already such pure acids, right? It will have a sharp effect, frost.

That is, you may simply not have time to do anything. Right? And when the pH can be 4-5 points there and even a high concentration of acid, this is a more light peel. It is not so aggressive.

And, by the way, we even have alkaline peels on the Ukrainian market, that is, when we have a pH of six and above, and alkalis are also quite aggressive. So, this is a nuance, right? This is a technical nuance that, unfortunately, people are not required to know, but unscrupulous manufacturers or distributors, or black distribution, which, sorry, doesn't care what they sell.

The main thing is that they sold. Yes. so pay attention to this, that is, the concentration, the nature of the acid itself on glycolic, that's how we sorted out the pH. So pH is the most proven indicator.

And again, you can't apply acid to the skin after which there will be trauma, after scrubbing. Because when all the stars have aligned, you scrubbed, did more, then the video is still there and you're all ears and everything. And this is a problem.

Well, we really liked the peeling. Well, it's important to talk about it, because I know that a video on TikTok was once very popular, where a girl did a peeling herself, then there were very bad burns, peeling, and she directly showed this way, how she got out of it. It looks very scary.

And that's why I actually had this question: do we even need it? I understand that there are, for example, peels that cosmetologists do, just like a procedure, and this is uncontrolled at home. When you bought some product at the supermarket, you might think about it, whether it's necessary.

But if you want, you know, such a wow effect, then you don't need to moisturize yourself. These are acids in a low, low concentration with a moderate pH. And you apply them, and they give a feeling of lifting.

They tighten the skin. Therefore, when we see, yes, that people had one face right there, and here they are on the set or somewhere completely different. Friends, this is a little secret, right? These are just acids.

They applied for 40 minutes, they tightened it, you did your job, washed your face and everything again, magic, magic disappeared. But remember that at 12 you will turn into a pumpkin.

There are also masks and here there is also a division. There are masks that we apply, they are like creams, we hold them, we wash them off, but there are also fabric masks. Which ones are better? Or is it still just like, you know, like a hobby, let's say, to calm yourself down? Nice care.

Well, it's nice when you do something for yourself. Nice, right? What have you done for yourself lately, friends? Think, think. Did you go for a massage or take tests for iron, for example, serum iron? What did you do? How did you take care of yourself? That's massage, classes, swimming, taking tests.

It's a very long story. And to come and buy a mask for yourself is a sincere pleasure and very quick. It's like eating a chocolate bar or freezing, right? So when you think about it, when we buy these masks, or we plan it so that we have something to do on the way out, yes, so that it's quick, or when it's a day off, or a day off and you get into some store and you start to can't stop, yes, you gain all this.

And this is a story about a ritual. This is a story about how we were sold the idea of ​​a more intense effect in a short period of time. You have to rub in creams for a very long time to see, yes, the result.

There are serums, yes, you have to apply something for a very long time. And a mask, well, it's magic. You opened it there, applied it.

15 minutes, 40 minutes, deep hydration, deep radiance, that is, everything is deeper than it could have been, right? Therefore, a mask is about a miracle. A mask is about a ritual, a mask is about a quick and the idea of ​​getting what you want.

And this can really be so, because when the ingredients in the mask are correctly adjusted pH, vitamin C, acids, you apply it for 15 minutes and the skin really is like, you know, it seems to have opened up, if it was dry and this deep hydration, ceramides, it is so rich, Of course, after such a mask, your makeup goes on beautifully and it's like a base, yes, under makeup. And you, well, really just get a kick out of doing it for yourself.

And you really see the result. Masks are usually, if we're talking about their chronic use, just once or twice a week, absolutely calmly. And does the form of this mask matter? Well, really, yes.

Some people find it more pleasant, you know, to smear themselves with a creamy substance. Some people get what they call a buzz when they get this cellulose thing, either on a fabric basis or on a hydroxygel. This form is very interesting, by the way.

Let's talk. You applied it so beautifully. And imagine, you just don't do anything with the mask there for 15-20 minutes, if it's still a little cold. Yes.

And in such heat, right? Well, well, well, it's pure buzz. Therefore, it doesn't affect the delivery. The only thing, I promised, Hydroxygel, yes, they are usually more expensive.

Why? Because hydroxygel is, you know, as such, and the compress works directly, right? The ingredients heat up from the skin temperature, hydroxygel does not allow this heat to pass and it forces the skin to absorb more of them. Therefore, hydroxygel masks, they are, let's say, more effective in delivering these ingredients.

But, well, to say that this is a direct difference, there is some kind of difference and you can use them on a permanent basis. It doesn't matter, ah, just choose the products that you like according to your skin type.

Then there is another, yes, one such service difference. If it is a cream mask, well, imagine, you need to apply it with your finger or spatula, then you need to wash it off or wipe it off somehow. Well, in general, some kind of another, yes, very uncomfortable, yes, a little.

And in the shield in a piece, then it got wet there, makeup was applied on top and that's it. That is, the mask in such, yes, in individually packaged cellulose or fabric allows you to open your eyes, stick it on for 15 minutes in bed. They also removed makeup, not makeup, but do not wash it off.

And here a completely logical question arises: so what is a mask? A more concentrated cream or a cream on a piece of some kind of base? If you are honest and read the composition, friends, well, a separate mask is simple. It is a form, a form of delivery.

Yes, you should not hope that this is a magical miracle. God, I am some kind of evil. No, today I will directly debunk something and it is not like that, and everything is not like that. Well why? We are telling the truth.

Yes. Well, we are against marketers today. No, we are not against it. It is just, you know, when this marketing is so medical, useful, it is cool. It allows people to understand what they need, and there is just aggressive pain marketing that simply takes advantage of our weaknesses.

So, pick up a mask for yourself. Dried, so moisturizing, emphasis on moisturizing. And here there may be hyaluronic acids, there may be lipid fractions here, if you have rashes or something else. They made the appropriate composition.

This is a cool ritual. This is a cool form, creamy, non-creamy, it doesn't matter. There are masks. This is from my childhood.

You haven't mixed clay, friends, ever. Oh, I just wanted to ask about these masks that we make ourselves at home. What could our parents, for example, allow us to do? I don't know.

Well, back then, there wasn't any of that. God, I'm so worried about it. Can you imagine, we're supposed to apply strawberries. Well, there was just nothing on the market then.

Yes. Kefir, sour cream, strawberries, lemons, cucumber. My friend once said, so, yes, a pack of liptans. Oh, this is not advertising, it's just, you know, it's a meme.

She says, I come home, my father, she says, brought me such a shaggy robe from Asia and says: "Come on, make me some liptans." And this means, what do these sachets, it's on the eyes. Here are our masks and eye patches.

Clay masks. Who has come to this stage? I have come. Oily skin. That's all. And, and still a lot of people ask questions, when a mask is on a clay basis, it is usually suitable for oily, problematic in terms of acne rashes, skin types. Why is clay so great at detoxifying, absorbing sebum.

And when it dries, this dry substance, it is directly absorbed into itself. Therefore, for people with problem skin, if you want to play around, a clay mask can be absolutely even such a simple one and the most ordinary. And there are brands that are more advanced in, you know, they emphasize that it is mud from the Dead Sea or some other Himalayan mud or added ash from some volcano, for example.

Yes, well, marketing, but still it is a mineral composition. You see, only brands can't, but there are really very cool, very aggressive clay mud masks that very cool work on problem skin. So even mud, you see, can be like a mask and bring pleasure.

But what about those masks that some people really do at home on their own, especially now in season, when we have berries, fruits, these are antioxidants, as they say, we apply grated strawberries or, God forbid, grated lemon. Well, how can it be harmful? Come on.

But it can be harmful only from what point of view? If a person has some kind of reaction, and there is an allergic reaction or contact irritation, because if we grind blueberries and make something like that, yes, puree for our face, I think, yes, in most cases nothing happens. Incredible.

It's not really an allergen, right. But if, for example, a person decides that they want to grate a lemon and apply it to their skin, they can get irritation purely due to this pH and irritating effect. It doesn't matter.

But we know that, for example, the same lemon in principle, well, yes tones the skin, that's all. But, well, there's really not much of that anymore. Maybe traditionally someone still likes it that way or, you know, there, I don't know, there's something conventionally left and, well, like no, because cosmetics are chemicals, and this is natural.

And I always forget about it, that there's a group of people who still think that this chemistry doesn't surround us. Yes, well, that is, even in those fruits and vegetables sometimes it happens.

But I'm talking about something else. Well, it's stereotypically cool. This cold cucumber under the skin. Even when I'm cutting some salad, yes, sometimes I just take this cucumber for a laugh, stick it here, and then I think so and that's all.

You know? That is, well, what, what why not? And in this fight, all methods amuse us. And sorry, a cucumber under the eye has never hurt anyone. But to bet on it and expect this effect, well, I think it's not worth it.

And we're all friends now saw from my own experience. Kefir, sour cream on the face. Well, they don't work compared to the technologies that are available today. I have a final question.

We probably have a stereotype in society that skincare is exclusively for women. However, do I understand correctly that today we have given such an arsenal? It is also for men and of absolutely different ages. Men stereotypically do not want to take care of themselves with creams.

This is for this, you know, a non-brutal story. But when he got burned in the sun, he then smears himself with sunscreen. And so, why couldn't he not think with his head? And the percentage of men who take care of their skin, but let's say, not from the point of view of, oh, I see facial wrinkles, yes, I'll apply some cream.

Someone thinks about this too. It's a little easier for men, right? There is a problem. Yes, listen, I washed my face, something tightened it, it's really itchy. If it just tightened, this one no, it's his won't bring, but it itches.

Something to me, that doctor, that you too, well, that's good. Well, that is, everything is very prosaic, everything is very simple. Men will not just accept this fluid, serum, concentrate, except serum, tu-du-tu-tu.

Well, for them, everything is probably very clear. Here we cleaned ourselves, here we smeared ourselves. It covered, covered our need.

That's all. Therefore, men are taking care of themselves more and more from the point of view of preserving their health. from the appearance.

And this is not something that pleases or does not please us. This is a fact that is absolutely normal all over the world, everyone takes care of themselves. And this is okay, it's everyone's choice.

And will this change? Now we are not talking exclusively about men, but also about women and men. This care will change with age, because we have creams + 50, +25, +45. However, if we are talking about classification by age, then, well, it is really clear that this is the concentration of active ingredients.

For example, a girl at 20 doesn't need argilrine, but a woman or a man at 30 will already think about it, because argilrine is like a muscle relaxant, it relaxes this muscle spasm a little and thereby reduces dynamic wrinkles. Well, that is, everything is very calm here.

Cosmetics, for example, 450 ps. In general, this jism is terrible, this distribution. It also leaves a little. Yes, it leaves very rarely to see.

This is just some kind of crime, to be honest, imposition. That's it. But the older the skin, the more nutritious the product is intended for. What does this mean? It's denser.

there are more fats, it moisturizes, provides deeper penetration, even when the percentage of active ingredients is the same. That's all.

And now look, if men, they are still gaining experience in this, then women, on the contrary, already, you know, rollback, and all in search of some universal remedy. And by the way, we have already had such in Ukraine.

And there are world brands that are very successful, when, you know, former models, they got tired of smearing themselves with everything and they became authors, developers of one universal remedy that nourishes the skin, tones it, and so on, and so on. And these are successful world brands now.

Well, you see, they are moving forward in technology, and we are following them. Therefore, eh, I would not be surprised if in a year we meet with you and talk on the same topic, because some other drug has appeared, which we have not talked about everything yet. We have not talked about everything yet.

There is a lot of time, time, really. Well, and the audience will not watch for three hours, we know that. We will have an intermission.

Yaroslav, I am very grateful to you for visiting us again. We had a very interesting, lively conversation today. Friends, please write to in the comments, on what other topic you would like to listen to a podcast about skin, because, I think, there is absolutely everything here.

Yes, well, I thank you again, because your team is always cool and works great. But to our subscribers, I want to say that think a little critically. This is the first.

And the second, well, support us and share. If you heard at least something useful, friends, share, support us, because we want real things to be heard. Thank you all.

Thank you, friends. Subscribe to our channel, like this video, and also don't forget to put on the bell so as not to miss the next episodes of the podcast How to "How to Live". Thank you very much for watching.